Behind the Seams: How Leather is Tanned with Vegetables

It sounds good to tan with vegetables. The truth is more interesting: it's a traditional chemistry-and-craft process that uses plant tannins from bark, leaves, pods, and wood to turn animal hide into leather that can last for years, show its age, and get that slow, beautiful darkening that people call "patina".

You might have come across vegetable-tanned leather if you've ever touched a belt that feels firm and a little "dry" in a beneficial way, a structured bag that keeps its shape, or leather that looks better after a season of use than worse. Vegetable tanning is not automatically considered "eco-friendly" (as the process of making leather always has an environmental impact), and it is also not inherently waterproof. But it's a wonderful example of how the material you choose can change how you use something every day: how it smells, bends, scratches, and heals.
This guide explains what vegetable tanning is, how it works step by step, what it's best for, what to watch out for in the UK climate, and how to keep veg-tan leather looking like you meant to wear it.

Short Summary

• Vegetable tanning uses tannins from plants (usually bark or wood) to turn raw hide into leather that is stable and doesn't rot.
• The process usually takes longer than chrome tanning, which is one reason why vegetable-tanned leather is pricier.
• Veg-tan usually starts out light (beige to light tan) and gets darker with light, handling, oils, and time, creating patina.
• It is often firmer and more "structured" than chrome-tanned leather, which makes it a good choice for belts, bags, straps, and some parts of shoes.
• It doesn't naturally keep water out; water can leave marks on it, especially when it's new, so protection and good drying habits are important in the UK.
• "Vegetable tanned" doesn't mean "chemical free" or "zero impact". It just means that plant tannins are the main tanning agents.
• Good veg-tan should feel dense and smooth, with neat edges and stitching that matches the leather's long-lasting purpose.
• Taking care of it is straightforward: keep it clean, condition it lightly, keep it out of heavy rain, and never dry it quickly on radiators.
• If you want leather that looks the same forever, veg-tan leather isn't for you. If you like character, that's the point.
• When you shop, ask what part is vegetable tanned (the whole leather or just a piece) and if it is "fully veg-tanned" or a mix of different types of tanning.

What Does It Mean To Tan With Plants?

Vegetable tanning is a way to tan leather that uses tannins from plants to prevent collagen fibres in animal hides from breaking down. The word "tanning" is important because raw hide will rot. Tanned leather won't, though, because the collagen structure has been changed chemically and made more stable.

What Do 'Tannins' Mean In Simple Terms?

Many plants have tannins in them, which are compounds that happen naturally. They easily stick to proteins, which is why tea with many tannins feels dry in your mouth. In leathermaking, the same binding behaviour is used deliberately: tannins attach to the collagen fibres in the hide and help hold them in a stable network.

Why Does Vegetable Tanning Feel Different in Your Hands?

Veg-tan is often:

• More supportive and firm (especially at first).
• More able to be moulded and shaped.
• Early signs of wear and tear, such as scratches, water spots, and fingernail lines, are more likely to appear.
• It's more likely to change colours and "warm up" with use.

That's why people reach for it when they want structure and age, not softness and a steady colour.

Why Leather Needs to Be Tanned?

Before we "go behind the seams", it's helpful to know what tanning is fixing. Collagen makes up most of rawhide. Collagen is strong, but it is also a living thing that microorganisms can break down. Tanning:

• Tanning reduces the likelihood of the hide absorbing water and experiencing abnormal swelling.
  
• This process also hinders the growth of bacteria and the spread of decay.
  
• This process enhances the material's strength and flexibility, rendering it useful.
  
• This process allows for various forms of manipulation, such as cutting, stitching, edging, and shaping.

With every tanning method, there are trade-offs between speed, softness, colour choices, performance, and cost. Vegetable tanning is a classic choice when you want something that will last and look good as it ages.

Step by Step: How the Vegetable Tanning Process Works

Different tanneries have their ways of doing things, and new tools can speed them up, but the process usually goes through the same general steps. You can consider it to be two big parts: the "beamhouse" work, which gets the hide ready, and the tanning and finishing work, which turns the veg-tan into itself.

Curing and Sorting

Beginning with a stable raw material Fresh hides need to be stabilised right away, so they don't go bad. Salting and controlled storage are two common methods. Tanneries also sort hides by size and quality because scars, insect bites, and growth marks change how they look and how much they yield. What this means for you is that vegetable-tanned leather is not always "perfectly uniform". It's normal for things to vary a little bit. The question is whether it looks like it was chosen on purpose and is right for the product.

Soaking

Cleaning and adding water to get rid of curing salts, dirt, and some soluble proteins, hides are soaked. This procedure resets the hide so that it can be processed evenly.

Liming and Dehairing

This process involves breaking apart the fibre structure. Liming makes the hide bigger and makes it easier to remove hair and skin. It also "opens up" the fibre structure so that tanning agents can get in later.

Deliming and Bating

Getting the hide back under control After liming, the hide needs to be made easier to work with. Deliming makes things less swollen, and bating uses enzymes to make the fibres more flexible and soft. This step is one reason why two veg-tanned leathers can feel completely unique: the work that goes into preparing them has a big effect on how they feel in the end.

The Tanning Stage

When plant tannins do most of the work, it's time to add tannins to the hide.

Drum Tanning (Modern) vs. Pit Tanning (Traditional)

Pit tanning: hides are hung or stacked in pits with tannin solutions that get stronger over time. It can take weeks, or even longer, for this to happen.

Drum tanning: rotating drums speed up penetration and can cut processing time by a lot. Neither is "automatically better" all the time. Pit tanning is known for its depth and tradition, while drum tanning is known for its consistency and speed. Quality has more to do with how well the tannery controls and finishes the leather than with romance alone.

The Idea of "Building" Levels of Tannin
People usually do vegetable tanning in steps, starting with lighter tannin baths and working their way up to stronger ones. This makes it easier to get in and lowers the chance of tanning the outside too quickly while leaving the core under-tanned. What this means for you is that well-tanned veg leather should feel thick and even all the way through, not spongy in the middle.

Drying and Setting Out

Keeping the shape and size in check the leather is carefully dried after it has been tanned. "Setting out" (smoothing and getting rid of extra moisture) helps keep wrinkles in check and makes sure the surface is even. This is one reason why you should never dry your leather goods quickly at home. Tanneries work hard to keep radiators from hurting their work in just one afternoon.

Finishing

What's the difference between "tanned" and "ready to wear"? Finishing can mean:

• Oiling/fatliquoring (adding controlled oils to make it more flexible).
  
• Dyeing (some veg-tan is left natural, and some is dyed).
• Buffing and polishing.
  
• Surface coatings (light protective finishes, depending on the look you want).
  
• Finishing the edges (with paint, wax, burnishing, or sealing).

A "natural" veg-tan with little finish will get a lot of patina but also scratch easily. A more finished veg-tan may look more stable, but it will still age.

What are Plant Tannins Made Of?

Depending on the area, the tradition, the availability, and the feel they want, tanneries use different plants. Some common sources of tannins are:

• Oak (historically important in Europe; often linked to classic veg-tan character).
  
• Chestnut.
  
• Acacia mimosa.
  
• Quebracho.

Each has its own way of tanning. Some make the leather stronger, some change the colour to make it warmer, and some change how the leather absorbs oils and finishes. If a product description only says "vegetable tanned", you probably won't know the exact mix of tannins. This is normal. What matters is that the final product works for what it was made for.

What Is Vegetable-Tanned Leather Good For (and What Can't It Do Well)?

Veg-tan is not an upgrade that works for everyone. It works great for some things but not so well for others.

Vegetable-Tanned Leather Is Great for Many Things

• Straps and belts (the structure, strength, and edge finishing are important).
  
• Vegetable-tanned leather holds its shape well in bags and other small leather goods with a rigid body.
  
• Wallets and cardholders, if you like patina and sharp folds.
  
• Depending on the design, parts of shoes such as insoles, midsoles, heel counters, and structured panels may need to be replaced.

When Veg-Tan Can Be a Hard Choice

• Being outside in the rain all the time without protection (like during British winter commutes).
  
• Designs that are very soft and slouchy, with drape as the goal.
  
• High-gloss, perfectly even colour expectations (Veg-tan is a "lived-in" material).
• Look for leathers that are made to resist water and keep their colour and finish the same.
• The best thing about veg-tan is that it doesn't stay still.

What Is The Real Difference Between Vegetable Tanning and Chrome Tanning?

People often compare vegetable tanning to chrome tanning. Here is the buyer-friendly, practical version.

Common Traits of Vegetable-Tanned Leather

• More solid and structured.
  
• Shows age (patina).
  
• Often takes well to embossing, carving, and burnishing.
  
• May get marks more easily when new.
  
• Can be more sensitive to water without any protection.
  

Typical Features of Chrome-Tanned Leather

• Usually softer and easier to bend.
  
• More often the same colour.
  
• Usually more resistant to water in daily use (depending on the finish).
  
• Can be made more quickly.
  

Combination Tanning (Mixed Tannage)

Some leathers are tanned using a mix of methods to get the right balance of properties, like stability and softness. If you see "veg tanned" on a product listing, you should check to see if the whole leather is veg-tan or if it is a mix of different types.

Tip for shopping: Look for clear language, like "fully vegetable tanned", instead of vague claims. A good brand should be able to clear up any missing information.

Why Veg-Tan Changes Colour and How to Enjoy It

Patina isn't a flaw; it's the point, but only if you know what to expect.

Veg-Tan Gets Darker and Changes Because Of

• Being in the sun and UV light.
  
• Oils from your hands.
  
• Friction in places where there is a lot of contact (strap edges, corners, folds).
  
• Conditioning products (some make hair darker than others).

What Patina Looks Like in Real Life

• The handles and straps get deeper and shinier.
  
• Scuffs mix in with the general warmth.
  
• "Clean" areas stay lighter, which makes them stand out.

If you want an even patina, use the item regularly and don't leave it half-covered in direct sunlight. This can cause "tan lines" on leather, just like on skin.

How to Tell if Leather Is Vegetable-Tanned When You Buy It

Words used in marketing can be confusing, so pay attention to real signs.

What to Look for in Product Descriptions

The best way to do this is still the simplest: read the description of the materials and look for specific words like "vegetable-tanned leather" and, if possible, where it is used in the product.

If you're looking at more than one thing, make a short list and see which ones break down the material the best. Clarity is a good sign on its own.

Visual and Tactile Hints (Useful, but Not Conclusive)

• Natural veg-tan usually starts out light tan or beige.
  
• The edges may be burnished, which means they are smooth and shiny instead of painted.
  
• The surface may have small pores and natural differences.
  
• It often feels thick instead of spongy.

Be careful with "tests" you see online that involve water drops, bending tricks, or burning. They can hurt things and don't work well on all finishes.

Common Mistakes That Cost a Lot of Money

"Vegetable tanned means it won't get wet."

No, it doesn't. Veg-tan can handle everyday life, but if it gets wet and isn't dried properly, it can leave marks and make things stiff.

"Vegetable tanned means no chemicals."

No, it doesn't. Vegetable tannins are chemicals in the scientific sense, and making leather involves many steps and chemicals. Vegetable tanning means that the main tanning agents come from plants.

"If it scratches, it's not good quality."

Many high-quality veg-tans scratch easily at first because they don't have a lot of surface coating. That sensitivity is what often makes patina grow.

"More oil always means better care."

Too much conditioning can make the structure softer, make the leather darker in spots, and attract dirt. When using veg-tan, it's usually best to use less and lighter.

How to Take Care of Vegetable-Tanned Leather in the UK

The weather in the UK is hard on leather. It can be drizzly, have wet pavements, have sudden downpours and have indoor heating that dries things out. The goal is not to pamper veg-tan; it is to keep it stable.

The 60-Second Routine for Daily Care

• Use a soft, dry cloth to wipe off dirt and dust from surfaces.
  
• If it has been outside in light rain, let it air dry naturally away from radiators.
  
• Keep it in a place where air can get to it (not sealed plastic).

A Simple Step-by-Step Guide to Deep Cleaning and Conditioning

Do this every now and then, not every week.

1. To get rid of grit, dry brush or wipe.
   
2. If you need to, spot clean with a cloth that is only a little wet (not soaking).
   
3. Let it dry completely at room temperature.
   
4. Use a cloth to put a small amount of conditioner (neutral leather balm or cream) on.
   
5. Buff lightly after it has soaked in.

What to Do (and Not Do) When It Rains 

Do:

• Use a clean cloth to gently blot.
  
• Let it dry on its own.
  
• Expect some small marks on very new veg-tan (they often turn into patina).

Don't:

• Put it on a radiator or use a hair dryer.
  
• Bend or force it into shape while it is still wet (this can make creases).
  
• Soak it and then drown it in conditioner right away.
  

Should You Make Veg-Tan Water-Resistant?

In the UK, a light, breathable protector can be a good idea, especially for shoes and bags that will be on wet pavements. The most important thing is to pick products that are made for leather and only use them when you need to. Heavy waxes can make veg-tan much darker and change how it feels. Some people might like this, but others might not.

If you like the pale "new leather" look, try out any protector on a part of the leather that won't be seen first, or pick something that is already finished or dyed to be more colour-stable.

A Buyer's Guide to Choosing Vegetable-Tanned Leather Goods

When the design of the product takes into account what leather does well, veg-tan is a great choice. Use this list to make sure you don't pay for the name without getting the benefit.

1) Make Sure the Tannage Is Right for the Job

• Veg-tan is often a good choice for structured bags, belts, and straps.
  
• For soft, drapey things, look for leathers that have been treated to make them soft.
  
• If you plan to use it every day in the rain, think about how the leather is finished and protected.

2) Check the Edges and the Stitching

Good construction gets veg-tan. Look for:

• Even stitching with no loose ends.
  
• Edges that are smooth and sealed (burnished, waxed, or neatly finished).
  
• Reinforced stress points (strap joins, corners).

3) Ask What 'Veg-Tanned' Means in Detail

Some parts are vegetable tanned for structure, while others use different leathers for comfort or colour. That doesn't mean it's always bad; it could be smart design. But you should know what you're getting.

4) Think About How Much "Change" You Can Handle

Choose a darker dyed veg-tan or a more finished surface if you want the leather to stay the same. If you like patina, natural or lightly finished veg-tan will give you that look that changes over time.

A Note About "Eco" Claims and Sustainability

People often say that vegetable tanning is more natural because the tannins come from plants. That can be a good thing, but it doesn't mean that the impact will always be lower.

Leather production still includes:

• A lot of water use.
  
• Energy for drying and processing.
  
• Chemical steps in getting ready and finishing.
  
• Things to think about when dealing with waste.

Longevity and repair are two more down-to-earth ways to think about leather's sustainability. A well-made leather item that lasts for years (and is taken care of properly) can cut down on the need to buy new ones all the time. That's where veg-tan gets its reputation: it's made to last, not to hide the fact that it's getting older.

If you care about the environment, look for brands that clearly explain their materials, encourage you to take care of and maintain your things, and make things that are easy to fix.

"Behind the Seams": How Veg-Tan Helps Artisans Do Their Work

Makers like vegetable-tanned leather for practical reasons:

• It cuts cleanly and has a sharp edge.
  
• It shines well.
  
• It needs to be embossed and shaped.
  
• It can be sewn in a way that looks even better after the leather has settled.

Some leather goods look "finished" on the first day and then slowly get worse, while others seem to get better over time. One reason for this is the choice of material. Veg-tan is a kind of leather that likes to be touched.

Questions That Are Often Asked (FAQ)

Is leather tanned with vegetables better than leather tanned with chrome?

Not all the time. Vegetable-tanned leather is often better for things that need to be structured and show age (patina). Chrome-tanned leather is often softer and has a more even colour. It depends on how you plan to use it if it's "better".

Does leather that has been tanned with vegetables smell different?

Yes, a lot of the time. People say that veg-tan leather smells warmer and woodier, while chrome-tan leather smells sharper or more neutral. Finishes and dyes can also change the smell, so this is not a final test.

How long does it take to tan vegetables?

It depends on the tannery and the method. It can take weeks to tan leather in a traditional pit, but modern drum processes may be faster. In general, veg tanning takes longer than regular chrome tanning.

Does vegetable-tanned leather get darker even if I don't use it?

Yes, it can. Just being in the light can make veg-tan darker over time. To keep things from getting unevenly old, keep them out of direct sunlight and don't leave them half-covered in bright rooms.

Can leather that has been tanned with vegetables handle rain?

It can handle light rain, but it is more likely to get watermarks than leathers that have been heavily finished. If it gets wet, let it dry on its own away from heat sources. You might also want to use a light protector if you plan to use it in the rain.

How do you get rid of water spots on veg-tan?

Time and gentle conditioning often help them blend in with the patina. Don't scrub too hard. If marks bother you, don't just treat the mark; treat the whole panel lightly and evenly. Treating only the mark can make the contrast worse.

Should I put oil on vegetable-tanned leather?

Be careful with oils. Too much oil can make leather softer and darker in spots. A neutral leather balm or cream that you don't use too much of is usually a safer place to start than straight oil.

Is leather that has been tanned with vegetables better for the environment?

It can be a good choice, but that doesn't mean it's "sustainable". The best signs are openness (clear material information), responsible production methods, and whether the item is made to last and be cared for.

Does veg-tan break more easily?

If you don't take care of it, soak it over and over again and then dry it quickly, or let it dry out near heat, it can become stiff and crack over time. Good veg-tan lasts a long time if you take care of it and dry it properly.

How can I tell if a product is made of 100% vegetable leather?

Check the product description for certain words. If you're not sure, ask the brand if the leather is fully veg-tanned or if only some parts are. If you get clear answers, it's a positive sign that you're buying the real thing.

Is "vegetable tanned" the same as "vegetable leather" or "vegan leather"?

No. "Vegetable" refers to the tanning agents, not the leather itself. "Vegan leather" usually means synthetic or plant-based materials that aren't animal skin.

What should I look for in veg-tan that will stay neat?

Pick a darker dyed veg-tan or a surface that is more finished, and make sure the construction is adequate (edges, stitching, and reinforcement). Think about using a light protector early, even though it might make the colour a little darker.